Pearling

There is a scenario, common among new surfers, whereby you sit too far up on your board while trying to catch a wave. What happens then is the front of the board digs into the water too far and you do an endo. What happens in the shallow surfs in this area sometimes is the front of the board digs into the sand just as the wave is cresting under you and you 'pearl'. The stream of consciousness today was 'oh shit I'm airborn here' on two waves. Still no fear though. The swells hit 12.5 feet today at one point. That's a whole lotta liberation coming towards you. A very intoxicated veteran surfer suggested to me on the beach that I not bother trying to stand but just stay on my stomach for a few more days to get a better feel of things. It worked. I was able to cut back and forth across the wave a few times yelling my delight at this newfound escape as opposed to standing for brief periods and then pitching it.