oui, c'est moi: May 2009

Stream of Consciousness While Surfing

A conversation I had with myself while trying to overcome my most profound fear and get in the water last week:

OK... we're doing this... here we go... getting in the water... no problem... fuckin' whale spouting just out there... no problem... here we go... who the FUCK surfs with a whale?... oh jesus, here comes the first wave... 3 foot swell my ass... looks more like 10 feet... that was kinda fun... out further... go out further... catch it while it's breaking... did something just bump my board?... no problem... don't look in the water... paddle... paddle... paddle... pretty deep here... paddle... OK... sit up on the board and turn yourself around... another set of waves coming... lay down on the board like he showed you... OK... here we go... look at the SIZE of those waves... go for it... paddle... paddle.. OK... you're in it... get up on your knees... you're doing it... you're on your knees but you're riding a wave in... the hell is that dark spot that just went under me?... here comes the beach... get ready to bale... bale... there... you did it... the hell is that in the water... was that a dorsal fin?... that's not funny... stop talking to yourself... go again... tired already... go again... one more set then take a break...

I am being a tourist for a day in Vancouver, sitting in a coffee shop across from English Bay for their wifi. Vancouver is an incredible city on a sunny summer day.

Yesterday At Shannon Falls

At Long Beach Today

Florencia Bay

Went surfing today with an old friend. It was the first time in my life I had ever tried it. The conditioning necessary to do that sport surprised me. Very exhausting very quickly. Did actually get out into the waves a few times over the course of a few hours. Came in when I was getting too exhausted. Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny here. We're going back out to the beach for another surf day and then cooking food on the beach over a bonfire. I see the appeal of surfing now. You're out in the water getting incredible amounts of exercise. Everyone around this scene is mellow here, either by nature or from all the exercise. As my friend and I were walking down the beach towards our surfing spot he pointed out a whale spouting out in the bay. I am absolutely terrified of water. I have have had this acute phobia for as long as I can remember. The whale sighting just off shore added to this. Pushed through it though. It isn't all that tough to ride a wave in on a long board if the waves are fairly small and smooth.