Surf Photos

Pearling

There is a scenario, common among new surfers, whereby you sit too far up on your board while trying to catch a wave. What happens then is the front of the board digs into the water too far and you do an endo. What happens in the shallow surfs in this area sometimes is the front of the board digs into the sand just as the wave is cresting under you and you 'pearl'. The stream of consciousness today was 'oh shit I'm airborn here' on two waves. Still no fear though. The swells hit 12.5 feet today at one point. That's a whole lotta liberation coming towards you. A very intoxicated veteran surfer suggested to me on the beach that I not bother trying to stand but just stay on my stomach for a few more days to get a better feel of things. It worked. I was able to cut back and forth across the wave a few times yelling my delight at this newfound escape as opposed to standing for brief periods and then pitching it.

Charlie Don't Surf

But I do. Surfing, is, the, cat's ASS! Currently enjoying a couple of days in the Long Beach area. Swells today were 7 feet. I felt absolutely no fear at all today enjoying this wonderful sport. Got tossed around a bit in the breaks a few times. My only issue was running out of strength and having to stop to take a rest. Sunny tomorrow so should be pretty good conditions. You really don't feel cold at all with a wet suit on. The board I used today was a soft top long board. Very long. It really isn't that challenging getting up briefly on a surf board that large. The challenge is the conditioning necessary to do it for any length of time without having to take a break.

Julie & Me

Chairlift to the top of Grouse Mountain in Vancouver last week.

Diversions

Finally finished reading that cow of a Shantaram. Brilliant but way too long at just under a thousand pages. Finished off The Alchemist a little while ago. I can see the appeal. Currently reading Ancient Wisdom, Modern World by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. He's a sharp cookie. Saw the movie The Hangover last week. Probably the funniest movie I have ever seen. Was giggling on an off all the way back to my car after leaving. Watched Seven Pounds tonight with Will Smith. Very powerful film. Oh and, almost forgot, Jung nailed it: http://noosphere.princeton.edu/
I should have some pretty good photos to post in about a week from an upcoming circumstance. The web design is coming along slowly but surely.